Le Nardian Grande Vin de Bordeaux Blanc 2023
Just south of Saint Emilion, this tiny 1.8-hectare vineyard sits in the commune of Lugaignac. Its south-facing slopes of clay and limestone are planted to old-vine, Muscadelle (now 70 years old), Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon, with much of these two varieties now 50 years old as well.
Due to intensive shoot thinning and green harvesting, yields are extremely low —just 22 hectoliters per hectare, or about three bunches per vine (just one-third of the permitted yield in the area).
Owned by JCP Maltus, the wines are produced at Chateau Teyssier; the final blend depends on the vintage. The 2023 vintage is Sauvignon Blanc 70%, Semillon 15%, and Muscadelle 15%. The grapes undergo a rigorous sorting process before a gentle pneumatic press. The must undergoes cold maceration at 6 °C for a minimum of ten days. Before being racked off to ferment in French oak barrels (50% new) in a cool, temperature-controlled cellar.
The wine is aged on its lees for approximately eight months prior to bottling and release, which is tiny, usually as few as 250 cases. Since appellation laws here prohibit planting white Bordeaux grapes, it is sold simply as AOC Bordeaux Blanc.
Colour: Straw, with gold hues and a lemon halo
Aroma: Still vibrant and incredibly complex, lifted floral notes, white flowers, tangerine, pineapple, and wild honey are supported by attractive lees characters of rolled oats and lemongrass. There are oak notes of vanilla pod and pie crust; the bouquet is delightfully enticing.
Palate: There is a slightly waxy texture as the wine glides into the front of the mouth. It offers up ripe, elegant fruit with exceptional intensity and character, a real presence on the palate, but with grace and charm. There is tangerine, tangelo, a touch of passionfruit, and a hint of thyme; before the palate profile gives way to oak spices, light and fine, subtle tannins and refreshing minerality. The wine has good length on the palate and finishes with a long, lingering aftertaste that displays a delightful array of citrus fruits.
Still young and fresh, with concentration and tension in the mouth, this is a wonderful Bordeaux Blanc. Serve it with a creamy tarragon chicken. 94/100.
Darren Gall
