Cristina Mercuri MW: No Shortcuts
In London on 27 October, a Tuscan-born former lawyer was formally welcomed as Italy’s first woman Master of Wine. Her research paper deserves as much attention as the title.
The Vintners’ Company received its royal charter in 1363; its hall on Upper Thames Street dates from 1671. On the evening of 27 October, the Institute of Masters of Wine held its Annual Reception there and formally welcomed eleven new Masters of Wine. Among them was Cristina Mercuri, the first Italian woman to hold the title.
Italy is not short of wine, or of people who understand it. It has, however, been short of Masters of Wine. The country waited until 2021 for its first, Gabriele Gorelli. Andrea Lonardi followed in 2023 and Pietro Russo in 2024. Mercuri, announced in February, is the fourth. There are now 426 Masters of Wine working in 31 countries.
Her route was not the usual one. Born and raised in Tuscany, and based in Milan for almost twenty years, she practised law at international firms, specialising in mergers, acquisitions and intellectual property. In 2015, she left the law for wine and brought its habits with her. She passed Stage 2 of the examination in 2022.
“It was an exceptionally demanding journey, requiring daily study, with no shortcuts,” she says. “It taught me discipline, humility and complete dedication to my work.”
The research paper is where the story deepens: “Wine, Women and Fascism: A Visual Analysis of the Representation of Women in Propaganda in Enotria (1922–1942)”. Enotria was Italy’s first specialist wine magazine, published in Milan by the Unione Italiana Vini. Mercuri carried its illustrated covers through two decades of the Fascist era, and I read them through visual semiotics: how the figure of a woman was put to work for propaganda.
It would be easy to file this under history. That would be a mistake. The wine trade still sells with pictures, and it still chooses who appears in them. Mercuri’s point is that communicating wine means questioning the language, stereotypes and cultural frameworks through which its stories are told. We scrutinise what is in the glass. We are far less careful with the words and images around it.
She puts that into practice through Mercuri Wine Club, the consultancy and education academy she founded and runs. It offers courses, training and consultancy for wineries, restaurants and businesses across the supply chain, alongside scholarships for young professionals and women. She also writes on wine for Forbes Italia and judges internationally for Decanter.
Hers was the largest intake since 2021: eleven new Masters, among them the first to be based in Hungary and in Portugal. Two work on this side of the world, Karen Hong Liu in Hong Kong and Weiran (Bill) Liu in China.
The Institute also presented seven awards, and one of the new Masters took three of them. Bryce Wiatrak, from the United States, won the Robert Mondavi Winery award for the best performance across the theory papers, the VSPT Wine Group award for the contemporary issues paper, and the Institute’s own award for outstanding achievement across all papers. His research paper explored the role of wine in the operas of Giuseppe Verdi. Italy was in the room twice that evening: in Mercuri’s magazine covers and in Wiatrak’s Verdi.
Jake Skakun took the Madame Bollinger medal for tasting. Kim Oshiro won the Taransaud Tonnelier award for the paper on the production and handling of wine, and Gabriella Macari the Vintners’ Company award for the business of wine paper.
The award for the best research paper, the Quinta do Noval award, went to Tiago Macena for “Encruzado in the Dão: Production Overview and Future Prospects”. Macena is the first Portuguese Master of Wine, and he makes wine in the Dão himself, as a partner at Código Wines. Encruzado is one of the country’s finest white grapes and, for now, is grown almost entirely in the Dão.
Mercuri and Macena both wrote close to home: she on Italy’s wine press, he on the white grape of the region where he makes wine. Neither needed to look far for a subject.
The last word belongs to Mercuri. “Italian wine is not simply a story to be told,” she says. “It is an experience to be brought to life, with fresh language and a perspective that is finally free.”
Each new MW received a framed calligraphic certificate and a 24K gold Master of Wine pin engraved with their unique membership number.
Following the inauguration, the individual awards, introduced into the ceremony in 1979 and sponsored by IMW supporters, were presented. Bryce Wiatrak MW took home three awards, while Tiago Macena MW, Kim Oshiro MW, Gabriella Macari MW and Jake Skakun MW each received an award. The 2026 awards and winners in full are:
Quinta do Noval award
For the best research paper, as chosen by Christian Seely.
Presented by Marine Castel, communications and digital marketing director, AXA Millésimes.
Awarded to Tiago Macena MW for his paper, Encruzado in the Dão: Production Overview and Future Prospects
All research papers can be accessed at: https://www.mastersofwine.org/research-papers
Taransaud Tonnelier award
For excellence in the production and handling of wine paper.
Presented by Henri de Pracomtal, Chairman of the Supervisory Board of Chêne & Cie.
Awarded to Kim Oshiro MW.
Vintners’ Company award
For the top performance in the business of wine paper.
Presented by Ian Harris MBE BA DipWSET, Master Vintner, the Vintners’ Company.
Awarded to Gabriella Macari MW.
VSPT Wine Group award
For best performance in the contemporary issues paper.
Presented by Caroline Hermann MW, IMW Chair on behalf of VSPT.
Awarded to Bryce Wiatrak MW.
Robert Mondavi Winery award
For the best performance across all the theory papers.
Presented by Jessica Bell, Trade Marketing Manager EMEA, Constellation Brands.
Awarded to Bryce Wiatrak MW.
IMW outstanding achievement award
Sponsored by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB).
For outstanding achievement across all papers.
Presented by Chris Yorke, CEO, Austrian Wine.
Awarded to Bryce Wiatrak MW.
Madame Bollinger medal
For excellence in tasting.
Presented by Justin Liddle, Managing Director, Mentzendorff.
Awarded to Jake Skakun MW.
In addition to celebrating the new Masters of Wine, the ceremony honoured Anthony Hanson MW and Serena Sutcliffe MW (UK), who became Masters of Wine in 1976 and celebrate their 50th year as a Master of Wine.
Darren Gall
