A Quacking Good Merlot
Decoy Limited, Alexander Valley, Merlot, 2022
The Duckhorns have been turning out exceptional Merlot almost from the very beginning in 1978, releasing their first vintage just two years later. Their Duckhorn ‘Three Palms Vineyard’ Merlot is absolutely one of the very finest on the planet.
In 1985, they launched their more affordable ‘Decoy’ range of wines, and in 2020 released their higher-tier Alexander Valley wines under the ‘Decoy Limited’ label. 2022 is their second Alexander Valley Merlot to be released under this label.
The Alexander Valley in Sonoma County runs from the Russian River near Healdsburg up to Cloverdale and is bordered by the Mayacamas Mountains to the east. Decoy has two exceptional vineyards in the region.
About 90 miles north of San Francisco, the Ridgeline Vineyard rises high on Oak Mountain, one of the region’s premier areas for Bordeaux varieties. The site spans 44 hillside blocks, each shaped by distinct soils and elevations reaching nearly 2,000 feet.
The Brownell Vineyard is a valley-floor vineyard, with ancient gravel and sandy alluvial soils. Located in the heart of the valley, Brownell was planted in the early 2000s.
A cooling marine fog, pulled up from the Pacific via the Russian River, sweeps through the valley at night, creating large diurnal temperature swings that preserve natural grape acidity. The wines are defined by ripeness and structure, elegantly balanced. The 2022 Merlot is made up of estate and growing partners’ fruit.
A blend of Merlot 94% and Cabernet Sauvignon 6%, the wine was matured in French oak barrels for 14 months prior to release.
The result is a wine that shows attractive aromas: fruit notes of mulberry, boysenberry and blackberry; then there are more complex notes of vanilla pod, cardamom and a whiff of fresh herbs. The palate displays even ripeness throughout; the fruit flavours are alluring with impressive poise and balance. The structure is all finesse; tannins are super-fine, with a fine gossamer-like texture that is sheer, elegant, even sexy. It’s like peering at juicy, ripe fruit through a veil of translucent organza, inviting, seductive and very satisfying.
This is another magnificent Merlot from the Decoy label; pair it with a rack of lamb or duck confit. 92/100
Available in Cambodia through Ming Wines.
Darren Gall
