The Italian Blend of the Century
I arrived late afternoon at the Fantini affair, in the lofty chambers amid the grandeur and chic of the Rosewood hotel. I found myself high above a familiar urban sprawl, looking out at an afternoon sun that hung low in the haze of the city. Inside, sunbeams broke through at odd angles, glassware glimmered as if containing captured stars, bottles glowed, ice buckets lit up like little baths full of diamonds.
Buonissimo, that exceptional importatore-distributore di prodotti alimentari italiani gourmet, with its salumi and formaggio was there; whenever I even jot down the name, it sets off an aching desire to consume piles of sliced Mortadella & Stracciatella stuffed inside crusty Italian loaves.
Chef Cristia Nou Picart was also there, knife in hand, endlessly slicing thin, translucent slivers of succulent ham -off one of the finest legs in the entire hotel that evening.
Luca Bonomi, as consummate an Italian gentleman as you could ever hope to meet, was beaming and resplendent, greeting guests with the infectious smile of a man who was more than rightly proud of the wines he had to share with us all; he is just genuinely happy to see you.
The trade, the glitterati, the cognoscenti, they were all there; I suspect many came for Luca, but all would have left with a renewed sense of respect and appreciation for this outstanding selection of Italian wines.
Fantini
The Fantini Group began in Abruzzo, in the town of Ortona, in 1994, with three partners, Valentino Sciotti, Filippo Baccalaro and Camillo De Iuliis, who called themselves “The Three Dreamers”. They were soon pinching themselves when their collective dream to produce some of southern Italy’s finest wines came to fruition.
The wine group works with exceptional growers all throughout southern Italy and employs modern, sophisticated, and sustainable viticultural and oenological philosophies and techniques.
Fantini produces truly outstanding wines, with a focus on their beloved south and its many marvellous native varieties. Their wines can be found all over the world, and they continue to amass an impressive collection of awards and top scores in recognition of their extraordinary passion, dedication, and commitment.
Edizione
With the sun beautiful this low in the sky, but warming the room like Sol Invictus, it was an afternoon for white wines and spumante. What an absolute joy to investigate and appreciate these wines, and what a thrill it was to be there, immersed in the moment.
I thought the pick of the stable at this trade event was a beguiling blend of Pecorino, Fiano, and Grillo, known as the ‘Edizione’ Bianco.
Fantini’s Edizione is a limited-release label, focusing on exceptional blends rather than highlighting specific terroirs or varietals. Free to explore pure winemaking possibilities, the results are outstanding.
The varieties:
Pecorino, a variety that has its origins in neighbouring Marche but now thrives in Abruzzo, a region with so many national parks and protected areas that it is known as the ‘greenest’ region in all of Europe.
Ampelographers believe Pecorino to be an ancient, wild variety, eventually domesticated by Benedictine monks. The name pecorino comes from the Italian word “pecora” (sheep). Whilst the famous cheese (from Latium and Sardinia) is made from sheep’s milk, folklore has it that the grape was named because of its irresistible attraction for the sheep during the seasonal transhumance between summer and winter pastures.
Historically, it has been compared to the Riesling grape in ancient documents. The variety is early ripening and produces low, concentrated yields. Characteristically, its primary aromas and flavours are of acacia, white peach, and citrus. On the palate, it produces a medium-bodied white with lovely mouthfeel and minerality.
The Fiano variety produces attractive, fuller-bodied white wines that have impressive complexity and character, especially in the volcanic soils around Mount Vulture in Basilicata, near the border with Campania. Primary aromas can be quite floral with hints of jasmine, orange blossom, and blanched almond. On the palate, there will be honeydew, apricot, almond nuttiness, and ripe pear. Quite full in body for a dry white and with reasonable acidity, Fiano produces impressive white wines that have the capacity to gain further complexity with age.
Grillo, an exceptional variety that excels in the warm climate of Sicily, especially in Trapani. It produces wines with outstanding and unique character, with grapefruit, citrus, dried herbs, chalk, schist, and mineral salts. The wine retains exceptional acidity and is light to medium-bodied.
The Italian Blend of the Century
Appearance: Pale straw in colour
Aromas: Subtle and complex aromas with pear, papaya, white peach, vanilla pod, citrus, and thyme.
Palate: a delightful, dry, medium-bodied white wine with elegance, restraint and yet wonderful complexity of flavour, poise, and structure. Attractive, multifarious fruit glides onto the palate, nectarines, pear, and white peach, before more complex notes of almond and herb chime in. Then the fine minerals and chalky acidity add impressive structure on the back palate, a cleansing, refreshing coda. Texturally, the wine shows deftness and finesse, slippery on entry, before finishing with elegant, chalky notes.
The name Fantini has two meanings: one refers to an infant or an innocent, while the other is associated with a jockey or equestrian. With this incredible wine, they have either created something unique that will grow into a magnificently successful blend, or they have found themselves on the back of an absolute winner, probably both.
Amidst the hum of trade talk and social chatter, the suits, the smiling faces and that inner glow of contentment that one always gets from Italian Osteria, I turned to the sun and I was dazzled. The Italian blend of the century! It says so right there on the front label. I took the bait, swallowed it whole and then came back for more. Try it with stuzzichini, linguine alle vongole, grilled artichoke hearts, calamari, caprese or white asparagus. 95/100
Darren Gall
