Champagne de Saint Gall
Union Champagne is a winemaking co-operative based in the village of Avize. Champagne de Saint Gall is the name of the Champagnes produced by Union Champagne.
Founded in 1966, it comprises approximately 2,300 growers, whose vineyards span approximately 1,500 hectares across the Champagne region’s finest terroirs. Most significantly, 90% of these vineyards are classified as Grand Cru (62%) or Premier Cru (28%).
Yet, for this union of growers and producers, less than 25% of its revenue comes from the sale of its own branded Champagne. You see, the vast majority of their grapes produce the base wines that they sell to the major Champagne houses. These houses then age and blend these base wines to make the finest and most famous Champagnes in the world.
Each vintage, (after the fruit is harvested), the Union selects which bunches it will reserve for its own Saint Gall Champagnes and which it will sell to the Grand Maisons.
Amongst Champagne de Saint Gall’s most prized assets are some of the very finest Chardonnay vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, the region being the undisputable queen of Chardonnay in the Champagne region’s triple crown of varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier).
The Orpale is their ‘Prestige Cuvee’ produced from 100 percent GRAND CRU Chardonnay grapes from four villages in the Côtes des Blancs: Mensil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and Oger. A portion of the wine is held back from undergoing malolactic conversion to retain freshness and crispness to the acidity. The Champagne is only released when a vintage is declared and is impressively aged for a minimum of ten years before release.
Champagne de Saint Gall GRAND CRU Orpale 2012
100% percent GRAND CRU Chardonnay Fruit
Pale straw with flecks of gold and a fine, persistent bead.
Aromatically, the wine is stunning, a statement of complexity and sophistication. There is fresh cream and almond biscotti underpinned by wild honey, white peach, and a hint zest from a Meyer lemon.
On the palate, the wine is something quite remarkable, the pedigree of the fruit immediately evident, along with the class and poise of this highly rated vintage. Dry, (a light dosage of 5gm/l) with wonderful finesse, the Champagne swirls onto the palate, the mousse fresh, rich and creamy, before giving way to a mid-palate of the most incredible Chardonnay fruit in the Champagne region, intense, yet still seductive and elegant. Then, the third act, there is this delightful, fresh jazz-like riff of minerality and chalky acidity; it seamlessly takes over on the back of the palate, cleansing, refreshing, and outstanding. This is an extraordinary Champagne, with perfectly harmonious freshness, richness, and structure. A ballet on entry, an aria mid-palate and then lively jazz on the finish.
Over a decade old and still so fresh and refined, this is a truly great GRAND CRU Champagne and one that should continue to excite and exhilarate for at least another decade -and then probably many more. Drink it on its own, drink it with friends, pair it with the finest caviar, the freshest oysters, seared scallops, white asparagus, sashimi, or the most delicate Cantonese dim sum dishes. 98/100
Darren Gall
